Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Camargue visitor centre
www.saintes-maries.com. Chief resort of the Camargue, Saintes-Maries’ huddle of narrow streets and whitewashed houses clusters around an outsized Romanesque church. According to legend, the town was founded by Mary Salome, mother of the apostles James and John, and Mary Jacobé, Jesus’ aunt, who were washed ashore with a boatload of other biblical figures and their faithful servant, Sarah. The gypsy cult of Black Sarah, dating back to the Middle Ages, is celebrated in a famous annual pilgrimage which takes place in the town every May 24-25.
The fortified church is immense, with battlements and a tower which affords magnificent views across the marshes. The interior is decorated with a jolly collection of 19thC naive paintings depicting miraculous deliverances performed by the Marys, and the crypt is heated by hundreds of votive candles. The Musée Baroncelli, rue Victor-Hugo, depicts Camarguais traditions and local history. Otherwise the town is one big postcard, espadrilles and beachwear bazaar.
The tourist office has details of bike hire, pony trekking on Camarguais horses (there are dozens of ranches on the road into town) and boat trips. The paddleboat Tiki III departs on daily excursions up the Petit Rhône from Embouchure du Petit-Rhône, route d’Aigues-Morte (2.5 km west), between March and November. See www.saintes-maries.com for information on jeep safaris, for boat hire from the marina at Port-Camargue, and other activities.
