On Route 16, 68 km north west of Pescara. Not quite the largest fishing port on the Adriatic shore, it has the largest and oldest fish market. It is worth getting up early to see it in action. The town is nevertheless clean and odourless – faintly scented, in fact, with the broad avenues of mature pines. Though undeveloped, the beach brings fair numbers of holidaymakers.

Two kilometres of firm sands lead you south to the highly respectable small resort of Porto d’Ascoli, which is well-furnished with modern hotels and shops (including excellent grocery stores for picnic ingredients) and free of noisy entertainments by day and night. This place is a typical example of the small, genteel resorts which you may come across, sandwiched between more popular places, on the Marche and Abruzzi coasts.