www.burgundy-tourisme.com. A pleasant market town and eastern gateway to the park, Saulieu offers a choice of accommodation and a couple of diverting sights. The best known is the 12thC Basilique de Saint Andoche, much rebuilt and messed around, but its original capitals are well worth taking some time to see.

Among the local crafts exhibits next door, the Musée Municipal pays tribute to 19thC animal sculptor Fran√笵cois Pompon, whose imposing bronze Bull (Le Taureau) stands guard at the northern entrance to town. Pompon is buried beneath one of his own bird sculptures in the attractive 15thC Eglise de Saint-Saturnin, by the tree-lined Promenade Jean-Mace.