www.ot-saumur.fr. A demure little town, famous for its sparkling wines and riding school, Saumur is an affordable base which offers several diversions. Much of the town centre is modern and unexciting; while the remnants of the old town lurk around the Eglise de Saint-Pierre with its carvings and tapestries.

A steep lavender-lined footpath winds uphill from place Saint-Michel to the Counts of Anjou’s 14th-15thC Château de Saumur (closed Tues Oct-Mar). Shorn of its fairytale turrets and weather vanes depicted in the renowned book of miniatures, Les Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, it now houses the Musée d’Art Décoratifs, and the horsy but enjoyable Musée du Cheval, packed with lavishly decorated bridles, bits, saddles and stirrups. An army of 20,000 model soldiers parades in the orderly Musée de la Figurine et du Jouet, laid out in the powder store.

The tourist office has details of caves open for visits and wine tastings. Gratien, Meyer et Cie, route de Chinon, is a good bet.

Saumur’s cavalry connection, the Ecole de Cavalerie, presents arms, battle-scene dioramas and dashing uniforms at the Musée de la Cavalerie, avenue Maréchal-Foch. For more up-to-date cavalry transport, check out the tanks and armoured cars on show at the Musée des Blindes, Route de Fontevraud.

The National Riding School, at Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent (3 km NW via the D751), opens its doors for tours of the stables and practice sessions by the legendary Cadre Noir riding team (www.ifce.fr). Dressed in black and gold, they also perform summer season shows and take part in the annual Carrousel equestrian and military parade. While in Saint-Hilaire, check out the local caves. Not wine this time, but mushrooms flourish in the rock tunnels of the Musée du Champignon. Seventy per cent of the nation’s edible fungi grows near here in 500 km of underground galleries.