Epicentre of ‘Magna Graecian’ culture, most splendid of Hellenic cities in Sicily, where the ancient world still speaks to us across the centuries. The stylish, functional complex of the Paolo Orsi Museum (he was a well-known archaeologist) is an education in itself. Among the marbles is de Maupassant’s ‘ideal woman’ – a 2ndC BC Venus. All around are grouped the evocative temples of Diana, Demeter, Jupiter and Apollo; the sensational and unique Greek theatre (classical drama in May and June); and a rock-hewn Roman amphitheatre, second only to that of Verona in size. Explore grottoes and catacombs in the historic centre and wander among the papyrus beds of the Ciane river, one of Sicily’s best natural habitats, despite environmental pollution.