Most accessible, least Albanian, of the ‘minority’ towns. Five km north is Spezzano’s spa on five springs. Great hopes were pinned on this curative centre for all kinds of respiratory, arthritic and gynaecological ills in the 1930s, when the hotels and baths were built. A new lease of life is promised for a place which has been some years in decay.

South and west the Crati, Calabria’s main river, trickles to the sea. Irrigation schemes have dried it up but there are plans, with EC funding, to canalize it and encourage watersports.