On Routes 45bis and 237, 30 km West of Trento. A pretty village on a tough road (before 1918, under the Austrians, there was no road at all), it lies at a junction of valleys with the Brenta massif above – the point at which, travelling north, you stare wide-eyed at such heights and colours. Balconies overflow with geraniums, orchards march down near-vertical slopes. A short stiff climb takes you to a great 10th-14thC fortress.