‘Vast and numerous hotels’, says the 19thC guide-book – there are many more now. European royalty, including Queen Victoria, stayed here. Cavour and Napoleon III organized the liberation of Italy, thus inaugurating the international Stresa conferences of the 1900s. Under the headland opposite, in the twin resorts of Pallanza and Verbania, are a landscape museum (www.museodelpaesaggio.it) and the botanical gardens of Villa Taranto, 20 hectares of rare plants in tumbled profusion, laid out by a Scottish gardener in 1931 (www.villataranto.it/en/). After the Renaissance formality of so many parks, this typically English garden, controlled but not strictly disciplined, is a revelation. Off Stresa’s lake front are the Borromean islands, two fairylands of old gardens, groves of azaleas and camellias, strutting peacocks, grottoes and villas impressive in their vulgarity; and a third, IsoIa dei Pescatori, relatively unspoiled. Frequent boats and guided tours.