Teramo
Roman remains in a low-key town
Strange that such a solid, respectable town should have a history of brigandage, but it has. Flights of steps guide you to Castello della Monica, a 19thC medieval pastiche; to a small Cappuccino church with a wooden altar; and to the Collurania observatory. The Roman amphitheatre turns out to be a vague mass of rock, the Roman theatre consists of two mean alcoves. Curious coats of arms on old buildings, a pretty Villa Comunale (public park) with lake and civic museum. Everything low-key and parochial.