Caught in the embrace of the Grand and Petit Rhône as they flow down to the sea from Arles, the Camargue is equal parts water, land and sky. The dazzling liquid heat of summer and driving winter storms blur the outlines until one is indistinguishable from another. It is a primitive landscape with a touch of the exotic in its gardiens (herdsmen), their faces shaded by broad-brimmed hats, and the flocks of wild flamingoes nesting on the Etang du Fangassier. Black bulls and white horses graze in fields of purple sea lavender, sea rocket and pink willowherb, seemingly immune to the clouds of bloodthirsty mosquitoes on a mission from hell. A word of warning: mosquito repellent is a summer season imperative, and the mosquitoes are the one drawback to cycling around this otherwise ideally flat terrain.

Declared a national reserve as far back as 1928, the Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue covers 13,500 hectares along the southern reaches of the Rhône delta. The marshland reed beds are teeming with wildlife from lumbering beavers to a spectacular variety of wading birds and waterfowl, swelled by the annual spring and autumn migrations. For details of information centres in the park, see www.parc-camargue.fr. At Pont-de-Rousty (N570), the Musée de la Camargue provides an intelligent and interesting introduction to the region and its inhabitants. As well as dioramas, crafts and some terrific clay models depicting local architectural styles, there is a Camarguais discovery trail.