www.uzerche-tourisme.fr. Set on a rocky crag above a loop in the River Vézère, the ‘Pearl of Limousin’ shelters beneath a veritable coven of grey slate witches’ hat towers. Sporting window grilles and the odd coat-of-arms, the cosily-knit huddle of old houses is riddled with arches and alleyways, while the 12thC Eglise de Saint-Pierre has its original belfry, a collection of carved capitals and a musty crypt. Walking tour maps are available at the tourist office, and there are fine views over the valley from the Esplanade de la Lunarde.