The three Egadi islands are the rocks which in Homer’s Odyssey the Cyclops hurled after Ulysses. Favignana, 8 km west of the Trapani shore, has a neat island town, hotels and a holiday village. There is even agitation for a bridge to the mainland. Squeamish people avoid the island in May when the annual massacre of tuna takes place and the harbour becomes their ‘chamber of death’.

Levanzo next door is all rocks, rough tracks and crystal sea – ‘so clear you want to drink it’ says the only hotel-owner. Interesting botany among the crags.

Round Marettimo, 40 km west of Trapani, the tuna leap and the flying fishes play. On this mass of coloured rocks and a few derelict cottages tourists are rare – fisherfolk rent rooms and the Tourist Board turns a blind eye.

Ustica belongs to the Lipari or Aeolian island group but is nearest to Palermo (61 km). The population divides into fishermen, underwater explorers and drop-out artists. Four small hotels.

Pantelleria is a rough carpet of lava half-way to Africa with some vines (the super-heated shrivelled grape which produces passito) and a smart front with bars, restaurants and yachts. Strong Moorish flavour: one-room Arab dammusi (cottages) on the hill, fish-based couscous in restaurants. Air service to/from Palermo.