‘Ile de France’ is used here as a collective term for the countryside surrounding Paris – the Parisians’ traditional playground. The natural way to cover the best places to visit is on day trips from Paris, or in passing. Alternately sophisticated and rural, the hunting ground of kings and artists’ inspiration, the lle de France’s historical associations are many. An embarrassment of royal palaces and noble châteaux nestle in the rolling woodlands improving on nature with their magnificent formal gardens. There are many museums, marvellous cathedrals in the suburbs at Saint-Denis, the more far-flung Beau-vais, and, of course, incomparable Chartres. The former royal forests, dotted with small villages, and the restored barns and mills of wealthy Parisian weekenders, are a favourite destination for wave after wave of Sunday drivers in search of a friendly auberge in the woods.

The choice is so great that it is important to decide from the start what you want from your day. If you need to escape the bustle of the city, don’t look to the glories of Versailles, and its crowds, for relaxation. Head instead to Fontainebleau or the 19thC artist’s colony of Barbizon where sightseeing can be combined with exploring the national forest. There is plenty to see in this area, so consider staying a couple of days. Chartres is another pleasant overnight stop with detours to Sèvres or Rambouillet on the way, then you might continue down to the Loire. For youngsters, there is the brilliant air and space museum at Le Bourget, not to mention Mickey Mouse and the rest of his Disneyland pals at Marne-la-Vallée.

During the 19thC, the railways provided an escape for city dwellers who flocked to the waterside taverns, or guinguettes, bordering the Seine. Degas, Renoir, Sisley and Monet were among them. Later Monet moved further downstream to Giverny, where he spent his last years painting in the famous garden, which can still be reached on a day trip from the capital. The increased accessibilty of the Ile de France has done little to spoil its charms and greatly assists visitors relying on public transport. Do, however, get an early start as virtually every attraction (except Versailles) closes for lunch between noon and 2pm; and at week-ends it seems as if the whole of Paris is out in force.

TRANSPORT

Most of the attractions mentioned in this section are easily accessible by public transport, either the Métro, RER suburban train services, or SNCF main line trains. See individual entries for details, which usually assume you will start from Paris.