This exploration of Brittany’s eastern borderlands is a rip-roaring yarn of great castles and medieval knights spiced with a dash of legend and Celtic mysticism. In 826, a Breton soldier from Vannes, Nominoë, was created Duke of Brittany by Louis le Debonnaire. Nominoë united the corners of his remote duchy, rebelled against the crown and defeated Charles le Chauve at Redon in 845. The victory initiated a period of Breton independence which was to last nearly 700 years (Viking invasions notwithstanding), until Anne de Bretagne’s daughter married Fran͵cois I, and united the duchy with the French crown through their son, Henri II.

However, the French did not just stand by and applaud Nominoë’s declaration of Breton independence: they raised armies to teach the traitors a lesson. In response, the Bretons constructed heavily fortified towns and fortresses from the toughest building material available – granite. Several of these superb medieval edifices have survived the passage of time with barely a scratch and are among the best places to visit.

One name that crops up at every turn is Bertrand du Guesclin. Born south of Dinan in 1320, young Bertrand was a crude youth, disowned by his family. At a jousting tournament in Rennes in 1337, he borrowed a suit of armour and entered the lists anonymously, unseated several of his betters and won his father’s approval. Du Guesclin fought with the Bretons at the start of his military career, but sided with the French at the capture of Rennes in 1356, and remained (unforgivably in Breton eyes) in the service of France until his death.

If you are arriving from the north or east, Fougères makes a sensible starting point. Vitré, to the south, is one of the finest medieval walled towns in France. Most of old Rennes, the capital of Brittany, went up in smoke in the great fire of 1720, but the gracious 18thC city centre is a very pleasant place to explore, with a couple of interesting museums. To the west of the city, the Forêt de Paimpont, home of Merlin, King Arthur’s mystical wizard, is steeped in legend. If you have time, visit Josselin, one of the finest château-fortresses in the country (see Brittany). Don’t miss pretty Dinan on the River Rance, Saint-Malo or Mont-Saint-Michel (see Brittany).

TRANSPORT

There are rail services from Avranches, Dinard and Saint-Malo via Dol-de-Bretagne to Rennes, and trains from Rennes to Vitré. Otherwise, you have to rely on local bus services. There is a lovely boat trip on the Rance between Saint-Malo or Dinard and Dinan; and ferries shuttle regularly between Dinard and Saint-Malo.