Fantastic rock formations, sculpted by the winds – deserted beaches of flat white sands – limestone grottoes bristling with stalactites – smoky taverns, scented pine-woods, bowers of sea-angling bliss, subaqua wonderlands – multifarious cottage crafts and customs from a melting-pot of ancient cultures… and the jet set. The deeply indented coastline of the Costa Smeralda, on Sardinia’s northeastern tip, is the patrician playground. Expensive yachts have supplanted patched-up fishing boats. Night-clubs, bistros and hideaways in flamboyant gardens parody with antiseptic cleanliness the simple lime-washed dwellings they have swept away. All this is superb, but it is not exactly Sardinia.

The Costa was invented by the late Aga Khan who happened to be stormbound in a yacht. He could have been stormbound almost anywhere else on the north Sardinian coast and been similarly inspired. Some visitors will prefer the lovely lonely stretches, the unsophisticated townships where there turns out to be plenty to see and do; and everywhere, in town and country, the vivid reminders of far-off peoples who came and settled, planted their cultures, died or were driven out.

Northern Sardinia is an antiquarian’s hunting-ground. The most ancient nuraghe complex is at Santu Antine. Elsewhere, the best places to visit include man-made grottoes 4,000 years old threaded into cliffs as termites might thread the uprights of antique furniture. The Romans and Carthaginians are well represented in forts and settlements. Among some intriguing churches the Saccargia basilica near Sassari takes the palm with its bold chess board stonework.

This being Sardinia, pagan rituals are scrupulously observed and pageantry takes priority. See if possible, on the third Sunday in May, the Cavalcata Sarda at Sassari, where a furious horse-race (the jockeys stand on their mounts) precedes a three-hour costumed procession.

Old habits and occupations dictate rural life-styles. The roads marked on the map are minor, and they encircle Pattada, home of the notorious pattadese or shepherd’s knife; and Nule, where dazzling geo metrically-patterned carpets are woven. Historic centres of coastal towns teem with little shops offering souvenirs of more recent pedigree. If you are into pink coral, you’ll have field day.

TRANSPORT, INCLUDING MAINLAND CONNECTIONS

Alghero and Olbia have flights to and from several mainland airports, with summer charters to and from various Continental cities. Meridiana, Italy’s largest private airline connects London Gatwick with Olbia.

The rudimentary rail system of southern Sardinia is continued here, the line which comes north from Cagliari splitting, west to Sassari, Alghero and Porto Torres, east to Olbia and Golfo Aranci. There is also a route designed for slow-train enthusiasts between Sassari and Palau on the Bonifacio Strait.

Car ferries link Porto Torres with Genoa (12½ hours) and Livorno (10 hours). The popular sea-crossing is Olbia/Golfo Aranci to Civitavecchia (7½ hours). Book ahead! Siniscola to Civitavecchia by aliscafo (hydrofoil) takes 3½ hours.

Buses serve the principal towns and tourist areas, except that nothing so plebeian as a bus is normally seen on the Costa Smeralda. The long-distance bus routes are Olbia-Nuoro, Porto Torres-Sassari-Oristano and Olbia-Sassari. Local hotels advertise excursions.

General information on ferries and excursions, and general tourist information, see www.ciaosardinia.com