Regional capital, once the second city of the Kingdom of Naples, Aquila is an introverted hill-top place cherishing a few remarkable monuments. The Collemaggio basilica, dazzlingly faced with pink and white marble, has the tomb of Abruzzo’s favourite Pope, Celestine V – he who fece il gran rifiuto, ‘made the great renunciation’ by resigning the papacy. See Dante’s Inferno. The moated 16thC castle is now the National Museum of Abruzzi History and Folklore. A strange fountain with 99 spouts and a nightly carillon of 99 bells represent the 99 churches which once graced this pious town. Aquila’s little country-style shops have craftwork to offer in wood, copper, iron and lace. Buses go to Assergi for the Gran Sasso.