A well-maintained road, steep and winding, visits this so-called ‘Alpine Village’. Pine, beech, chestnut and sycamore grow in profusion, but on the higher ground there are meadows and pastures where cross-country skiing is popular. Three kilometres south of Campigna, on the Burraia plateau at the summit of the road pass, you can walk to Monte Falco (1,657 m), or the pool on Monte Falterona (1,295 m), where the Arno rises. It was a holy site to the Etruscans and we heard of an angler who hooked a 2,500-year old terracotta earring. Campigna and Monte Falco have ski tows. Above the forest sensational views open up. Local propaganda says you can see across Italy from sea to sea.