Here, as the Italian writer d’Arrigo pointed out, ‘the sea is more sealike.’ The strong current of the famous Strait sweeps past an invigorating, monumental and cosmopolitan city which could have shed reflections of a most distant past on our present, had not a series of earthquakes and the heavy bombardments of the Second World War brought the place many times to its knees. Even so, more than a sketch of the city’s rich heritage is displayed in the regional museum, a large and expertly arranged building which used to be a spinning mill.

The modern city is low-built with broad thoroughfares to minimize future earthquake damage. Festivals, trade fairs and art exhibitions keep it on the map. The prettiest church, San Giovanni di Malta, is in ruins. The majestic duomo on the tree-lined central piazza has been carefully restored although its ancient art works were beyond repair. Antonello da Messina (1430-1479) was the most distinguished native artist. Both he and Caravaggio are represented in the museum, north end of town on the sea front.

From the terraced cemetery south of centre you have marvellous views over Calabria and the procession of shipping through the Strait. Strange creatures from those waters lurk in Messina’s Aquarium, Villa Mazzini, opposite the Neptune fountain on the sea front at the junction of Via Garibaldi and Via delta Liberta. A beach of sorts lies south of the harbour. Leisure options include tennis, mini golf, go-karting, pigeon shooting, sea angling, sailing, water-skiing, windsurfing, discos galore and delightful walks in the Peloritan hills south of the industrial zone.