80 km inland from North West Coastal Highway, head south at turn-off between Roebourne and Whim Creek. This is what the unspoiled interior of Australia was like for thousands of years. Desert, oases of palm trees and lily pools, coloured cliffs and miles of mountain peaks, as well as stretches of tropical vegetation inhabited by kangaroos, brilliant dragonflies, flying foxes and, inevitably, several unique species of flies. Aborigines also used to live here too, but have since been moved on ‘for their own good’.

Head for the Homestead Visitor Centre, Millstream, at the southern end of the park. It’s open 8 am to 4 pm daily but not always staffed – however, rangers often drop by because they are stationed here.  The park website www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au has information on the Centre, where you can pick up maps and details of walks and treks.

Don’t miss the Chinderwarriner Pool with the famous lilies. This is near the Homestead Visitor Centre. From here there are also a number of trails. The best is the one to Deep Reach Pools, about 8 km long.