Far removed from the pomp and peacocks at Fontainebleau, there is a pleasant drive through the forest to Milly-la-Forêt, 19 km W via the D904. An attractive village with an old château and lime trees, this was the home of Jean Cocteau (1889-1963), who is buried in the 12thC Chapelle de Saint-Blaise-des-Simples, once part of a leper hospital abandoned in the 16thC. Cocteau decorated the whitewashed interior himself with engagingly simple sketches of herbs, a grinning cat by the stoop and a moving portrait of Christ wearing a crown of thorns. There is a small garden of medicinal herbs (simples) outside.