See visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk. The best views of Rocamadour are from L’Hospitalet, across the Alzou gorge. The little pilgrim village, cut out and pasted on to the cliff, is one of the most popular sights in the region, and although it is undeniably picturesque, the single street sandwiched between two 13thC gates swarms with visitors in summer. The main pilgrimage season is early September, when it is not unusual to see pilgrims mounting the 223-step Grand Escalier on their knees.

Less devout visitors can be swept up to the chapel-lined Parvis by lift. On top of the cliff, the restored 14thC Château allows the curious to sample the view from its ramparts; and there are falconry displays at the Rocher des Aigles. The Lur√笵cat tapestries at the Hôtel de Ville are another spectacular diversion.

Beyond L’Hospitalet, the Forêt des Singes and Jardín des Papillons house Barbary apes and butterflies respectively.