First visit the Cusa quarries, 3 km west of Campobello, where the classical temples’ raw material came from (see also the introduction to this section, above). Selinunte, 16 km south-east, is a never-completed Greek city of docks and villas, of eight great temples and six smaller ones. You see about six, which have been renovated amid much controversy.

Technical and historical arguments aside, it is a magical spot. Divine is not too strong a word for this miracle of architecture and city planning: the Greeks knew how to do it and Selinunte’s silence carries more weight than words or lizards, than acanthus or wild celery… until a noisy bridal party arrives and breaks the spell. This is a perpetual hazard at Selinunte. The elegant, two-toned pillars and pediments, amber and dark grey, make excellent backdrops for wedding photographs.

Winter sun: Selinunte and Western Sicily – in fact the whole of Sicily – have some winter sunshine.