Pausing here to look at some antiques 100 years ago, a British consul was offered the local castle for one lira. The problem was access: it stood on a steep crag. He bought it and soon afterwards they brought the railway to Aulla – the sensational Garfagnana line which needed so much ballast. Since a quarry had gone with the castle, Mr Waterfield was able to do a deal: all the ballast the navvies could carry in exchange for a carriage road, a bridge and some landscaping. The castle has been inhabited ever since, one of few Apennine strongholds so to be. Aulla otherwise has no attractions except as the junction of two thrilling rail journeys, east to Lucca or north to Parma.