The tattered village with Etna’s congealed overflow all around gave Admiral Nelson his Neapolitan title (Duke of Bronte) and the ducal seat is 15 minutes down the road. The short, straight cypress-and-azalea avenue leads to an exquisite monastic-style house. Chapel, cloisters and courtyard are hung with coloured vine. The ship’s bell, dated 1765, may have come from HMS Victory. The liveried major-domo rings it on Trafalgar Day (October 21). Nelson never saw his Sicilian estates. His successors the Lords Bridport (Nelson-Hood family) kept them afloat on walnut, pistachio and orange production and tolerated visitors.