Best seen at a quiet time, which is rarely possible, Lazise is like a scale model of itself, a diminutive fortress-by-the-water, locked in a tiny circle of walls, opening through hollowed caverns, each with a fishing-boat parked inside, to a low quayside with a derelict Customs House on it and a 14thC castle behind. The cottages battle bravely to preserve their character against a rising tide of cafés, bars and motor boats. Six kilometres east on the main road to Verona, at Pastrengo, is the Parco Natura Viva, comprising safari trails, a tropical garden, a ‘dinosaur’ sanctuary and a centre for the preservation of threatened species. Open all day every day with restricted hours in winter. There are picnic areas and a restaurant. See www.parconaturaviva.it.