Coming from Trapani you pass Mozia close offshore, a 7thC BC Phoenician island seaport which yields exciting discoveries. Boat excursions from Marsala. With its limestone shelves, tiny lagoons and evergreenery, Mozia is delightful but you may not land without permission from the Whitaker Foundation, Villa Malfitano, Via Dante Palermo. At Marsala, an exposed town, the sea-front can be windswept and waterlogged. Here nevertheless Garibaldi landed with his Thousand and a monument records the event. In a featureless tangle of streets the chief sight is Stabilimento Florio, the wine and brandy house set up in 1773 by John Woodhouse and Count Florio. (They sent a speculative consignment of Marsala wine to London, lacing it with alcohol as a preservative. It immediately caught on.) Few drink Marsala these days, though you see tanker-loads leaving town for Naples. Tour the cellars, see the memorabilia and statues to Garibaldi, Florio (his nephew is better-known: he launched the Targa Florio road race round Sicily, said to be the oldest motoring event) and, surprisingly, Mussolini in bronze, black shirt, tunic, bearskin birerta and all.