The Franciacorta label is a rarity outside Italy, but it is applied to some of the most distinguished − and expensive − bottles in the country. Particularly renowned are the spumantes or méthode-champenoise varieties. There are some powerful fruity reds too. Of some 60 wine producers, many welcome visitors. The Azienda Agricola Ricci Curbastro has built up a museum of presses and winery equipment; you can tour the cellars and buy wine inexpensively by the half case. It’s open all year: contact Villa Evelina near Capriolo (tel. 030 736 094); www.riccicurbastro.it.

Once, prospective residents could be tempted to live in Franciacorta’s inhospitable country only by the promise of freedom from paying taxes. Today it is a desirable place to live. The autostrada provides fast access to the cities of Bergamo and Brescia; the playground of Lake lseo is nearby and there is great skiing to the north.