Legend holds that a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis gave its name to the town and lake which the Romans called Sebino. The lake comes seventh in the league table of Italian lakes. It is S-shaped and you could drive its perimeter in half a day − though you would see little apart from spectacular scenery; so we suggest you set aside up to two days to do justice to the best places to visit. A score of picturesque fishing villages lines its shores, with a back-drop of brooding, misty mountains, the final southbound thrust of the Alps.
Most of the towns have medieval origins; some have been carefully developed for up-market tourism. A cosmopolitan air prevails: the Swiss border is just 100 km away, the Austrian border not much farther. Rising to 650 m in the middle of the lake is Monteisola, the largest lake island in Europe. It supports a population of 2,000 and for centuries has supplied half of Italy’s fishing nets. Traditional boat-building survives, maintained by a family who opened their doors for business in the 17thC. When you step ashore on Monteisola you feel that era is not so far off.
To the south, between Lake Iseo and the autostrada, lies the Franciacorta region. Once an uninhabitable marsh, it is now a verdant plain, noted for the production of quality wine. Two golf courses, a sports centre and a new water-based pleasure park provide outdoor entertainment. There are waymarked trails for walkers and cyclists.
To the north, the road to Bolzano and Austria runs through the Camonica valley where in recent years prehistoric stone carvings have been unearthed. A newly-opened museum celebrates Bienno’s former importance for iron and steel production. If you need to shorten your trip turn back at Boario Terme, the third-largest spa town in Italy, to complete your circuit of the lake.
The area is a delightful mixture of old and new. Old towns are mazes of twisting cobbled alleyways; rustic trattorie compete with glitzy cafés and discotheques. Shops offer antiques and traditional crafts: beaten copperwork and wrought iron. Across the street, the latest designer fashions from Milan are on show. You can make numerous excursions and cruises.
TRANSPORT
Nearest airports are Milan (international) and Bergamo (domestic). There are regular trains to Iseo from Milan and Brescia. Buses connect lake-side towns; minibuses operate on Monteisola where visitors’ cars are not permitted.
The following towns referred to in the gazetteer of Sights & Places of Interest are linked by ferry: (south to north) Sarnico, Predore, Iseo, Peschiera (Monteisola), Sulzano, Sale Marasino, Marone, Riva di Solto, Lovere and Pisogne. From Sarnico to Pisogne takes 2½ hrs.
