Hats off to those forgotten engineers who between 1886 and 1894 built this most picturesque of narrow-gauge railways. Did they ever suspect that the impossible country they tamed, merely to put a few villages in touch with civilization, would one day provide a thrilling ride for tourists, putting fun-park roller-coasters in the shade? The 229-km trip between Cagliari (Piazza Repubblica) and Arbatax takes nine hours including a lunch stop (Lanusei outward, Seui return). Considering the gradients, the fantastic looping bends and the 35 wayside stations, it is not bad timing.

The ‘Little Train’ is not green – verde is better rendered ‘verdant’. The route traverses dense oak and chestnut forests. (If you cannot spare time for the full journey, the Nurri-Seui, 80 minutes, and Seui-Lanusei, 100 minutes, sections are the most dramatic.)

Steam trains occasionally run as special excursions for pre-booked groups. The steam train is unforgettable. Every ten minutes you stop while driver and his mate get down to grease all wheels and connecting rods. Wear old clothes: a white shirt will never the same afterwards. To book tickets, see www.treninoverde.com