On the Great Northern Highway 214 km east of Derby. A nondescript spot, where the road crosses the Fitzroy River. The local Crossing Inn (www.crossinginn.com.au) is a hundred years old, making it the oldest watering hole in the Kimberley. This has the harddrinking reputation that you’d expect of such a spot.

Fitzroy Crossing makes a useful base for exploring the Geikie Gorge, just 17 km to the north-east. A boat trip takes you through spectacular scenery along a river that has freshwater crocodiles, stingrays and sawfish. There’s also a 2-km walk along the bank.

Some 100 km north-west of Fitzroy Crossing is Tunnel Creek, with its 700-m tunnel beneath the mountains. This is where the law finally cought up with the Jundumurra  (see Kimberley). In another 40 km or so you come to Windjana Gorge, renowned for its breathtaking scenery, mysterious Aborigine rock paintings of the Wandjina and noisome horse flies.